Over half a century ago, when I began my culinary adventures, I adopted a simple philosophy: if a little of something tastes good, more must be better. This approach led me to generously use aromatics like onions, garlic, oregano, and a variety of spices in my cooking.

Whether I was in my basement apartment on Onslow Gardens in London, my attic in Rue Blanche, Paris, or my single-bedroom on Mott Street in New York, the rich aromas of my cooking would waft through the corridors. Back then, I believed many recipes were overly cautious with seasonings, so I boldly doubled the spices, often resulting in bold and beautifully flavored dishes.

A plethora of hearty flavors

However, I learned that more isn’t always better, as exemplified by my early tzatziki experiments, where an entire raw head of garlic proved to be excessive. My wife’s playful banishment of me to sleep facing the wall taught me that sometimes, a couple of large cloves of garlic are sufficient. My current cooking style has evolved, favoring subtlety and high-quality ingredients, though I still enjoy a generous use of certain spices like Chilean merquén, Egyptian mint, and tart Turkish sumac.

Through my culinary travels, I’ve collected and frequently cooked a number of cherished recipes. One such favorite is Székely Gulyás, a pork and sauerkraut dish. I learned the basic recipe from András Hernádi, the former executive chef at the Hungarian Consulate in New York City.

Contrary to what its name might suggest, this dish isn’t a traditional goulash nor does it originate from the Székler ethnic group of Transylvania. It was named after a Hungarian bureaucrat, Székely, who improvised this dish with available ingredients at the Arany Ökör Inn in Budapest.

Tradition with a twist

The recipe I follow differs slightly from the original. I prefer pork loin over leg or shoulder and spice it with both sweet paprika and spicy pimentón de la Vera from Spain. This dish pairs wonderfully with egg noodles, Knedlíky dumplings, or rice cooked in chicken stock, offering a delightful and slightly spicier version of the consulate’s recipe.

I’ve encountered other variations of Székely Gulyás, each with its unique twist. Some include poppy seeds and sweet paprika, while others incorporate spicy paprika with tomato paste or crushed juniper berries. There’s even a version using pork sausage and smoked salty meat instead of pork shoulder.

Refined Székely Gulyás Recipe

Ingredients:

Method:

1. Preparation:
2. Cooking the Bacon:
3. Sautéing Aromatics:
4. Combining Ingredients:
5. Adding Sauerkraut:
6. Thickening the Sauce:
7. Final Assembly:

Serving Suggestions: Serve this Székely Gulyás over egg noodles, Knedlíky dumplings, or rice cooked in chicken stock, according to your preference.