Published with permission from LuxuryWeb Magazine
Stepping into the Jiufen Tea House felt like peeling back centuries, transporting me to the elegance of China during the Sung dynasty. Perhaps I’ve watched too many kung-fu films, but that was my immediate reaction upon entering this atmospheric, 100-year-old emporium in the rural village of Jiufen.
No visit to Taiwan is complete without exploring the historic streets of its old towns and villages, where visitors can shop for handicrafts and sample local delicacies. Jiufen, once an impoverished village, was transformed into a booming gold-rush town following the discovery of gold deposits in the late 1880s.
A rich tradition steeped in time
Today, the picturesque Jishan covered street, the heart of Jiufen’s tourist district, is lined with shops offering souvenirs, antiques, and modern recreations of ancient artifacts. It’s also a haven for food lovers, with stalls serving local specialties. At the end of this bustling street stands the Jiufen Tea House—a must-visit for any traveler.
The tea house itself is a multi-level structure. On the first floor, traditional cypress-wood cabinets display exquisite tea cups, a variety of tea pots — both modern and traditional — tea storage jars, and packages of tea leaves ranging from common to exceptionally rare.
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A counter holds a boiling black cast-iron teapot and white porcelain cups, inviting visitors for a quick tea tasting if they’re purchasing tea leaves to take home. Vibrant flower arrangements in bamboo baskets add a touch of color to the space.
Descending a set of wooden steps, visitors pass through an open-air courtyard featuring a tiered Taoist water fountain and a pond filled with brocaded koi. This leads to a lower level, where glass display cabinets house precious antique tea cups and teapots — treasured pieces of tea culture.
A delightful experience
Another flight of steps leads to the heart of the tea-drinking experience — a cozy, intimate room with tables, benches, and traditional Chinese canopy beds repurposed as banquettes. A row of six boiling cast-iron teapots sits atop burning charcoal, sending the rich aroma of tea wafting through the air. The exterior veranda overlooks a courtyard adorned with red lanterns and lush green foliage, creating an enchanting setting.
For the Taiwanese, tea drinking is a revered tradition. Whether black, white, or green, fragrant tea is poured with great care in a ceremonial manner, accompanied by delicate pastries and savory tidbits. The experience feels like a return to a slower, more refined era — a reminder of the beauty in simplicity.
Yet, no matter how deeply one immerses in this cultural oasis, modernity is never too far away. Even in the most exotic locales like Jiufen, the golden arches of Ronald McDonald stand as a reminder of the world’s ever-present globalization. Such is life!
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