Published with permission from LuxuryWeb Magazine
Traveling through Karnataka aboard “The Golden Chariot Train” is not just the most luxurious way to explore this historically rich Indian state — it’s the only way to do it in style. Sure, you could endure the long and unpredictable roads, navigating small villages and farmlands while dodging ox-drawn carts, cyclists, pedestrians, and wandering livestock.
But if you’d rather experience this stunning region without the stress, The Golden Chariot offers a cruise-on-land experience, where comfort, history, and adventure seamlessly blend.
A grand departure
Our journey began at Yeshwantpur Train Station in Bangalore—now known as Bengaluru—where we were welcomed in true Indian fashion. A four-piece band played lively tunes as two hostesses in vibrant saris greeted us with a traditional red bindi (symbolizing wisdom, love, and prosperity) and a fragrant flower garland. Walking the red carpet to the striking purple train, we felt like honored guests in a grand celebration, with a crowd of onlookers cheering our departure.
Our luggage was already waiting in our cabins, leaving us free to enjoy a welcome drink in the bar car before a festive dinner. That night, I was gently rocked to sleep by the rhythmic sway of the train.
Wild encounters in Bandipur and Kabini
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Our first stop was Bandipur/Kabini, home to the Rajiv Gandhi National Park, once the private hunting reserve of the Maharajas of Mysore. Donning life vests, we embarked on a water safari, where we watched elephants, monkeys, deer, impalas, wild boars, and bison emerge from the thickets to drink at the water’s edge. In the afternoon, a traditional land safari offered another chance to spot wildlife, though the elusive tiger remained just that — elusive.
The next morning, a friend and I took a detour to a nearby lake resort for a uniquely Indian adventure—steering a coracle, a small handwoven circular boat. Sitting on a raised stool to stay dry, I quickly learned that paddling was harder than it looked, especially with our laughter making balance nearly impossible. Our excursion ended with an elephant ride on the gentle Meenakshi, who graciously tolerated our enthusiastic affections before playfully spraying us with water from her trunk.
Royalty and Temples in Mysore and Hassan
Mysore’s grandeur unfolded at the Mysore Palace and Museum, where the dazzling treasures of the Wodeyar Kings, including a jewel-studded golden throne, left us in awe. The palace, still home to the ex-Maharajah, comes alive at night when thousands of lights illuminate its spectacular façade.
In Hassan, we visited Shravanabelagola to see the towering 58-foot-high Jain statue of Lord Gomateshvara. While the panoramic view from the top is said to be breathtaking, I opted for indulgence instead—spending the morning in the train’s spa. Later, we explored the 12th-century Hoysala Temple Complex at Belur and Halebid, marveling at the detailed carvings that took over a century to complete. The statues, so lifelike they seemed ready to step out of the stone, made it easy to understand why these temples are considered some of the finest examples of Hoysala art.
The breathtaking ruins of Hampi
Arriving in Hospet, we set off to explore Hampi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire. Once the largest and wealthiest city in India (14th–16th century), Hampi’s ruins whisper tales of its former splendor before being devastated by Mogul invaders. The landscape is surreal—massive pink granite boulders frame the ancient structures, creating an almost mythical scene. As we descended into the Sacred Centre, the Virupaksha Temple revealed itself, its towering stone peak dominating the valley below.
At the temple entrance, the “keeper of the gate,” a temple elephant, bestowed blessings upon visitors. Watching children offer coins and receive a gentle trunk tap in return, I followed suit—only to be met with silence. Apparently, adults were expected to pay in paper currency. Once I corrected my mistake, I received my “blessing”—a solid bop on the head, followed by a Namaste to show my gratitude.
As the day ended, we arrived at the Vittala Temple Complex just in time for a magical sight. The full moon rose behind the intricately carved stone pillars, its golden glow competing with the soft illumination of temple lights. The massive stone chariot, or ratha, carved from a single block of granite, stood as a testament to ancient craftsmanship, its wheels once designed to turn like a real ceremonial chariot. Nearby, the King’s Balance — a towering granite structure — spoke of past traditions where kings were weighed against gold and jewels, which were then distributed to the poor.
The final leg: Badami and Pattadakal
Our last day took us to the mesmerizing Badami Caves, a series of rock-cut temples carved into steep rose-colored sandstone cliffs. Dating back to the 6th century, these caves feature intricate carvings of Hindu deities, with the topmost cave dedicated to Jainism. The artistic fusion of South and North Indian styles reflected the influence of the Badami Chalukyas, rulers who encouraged religious tolerance, trade, and cultural development.
At Pattadakal, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, we wandered through impeccably preserved 8th-century temples set within lush gardens and pathways. Used mainly for royal ceremonies, these temples stood as a grand finale to our journey.
As our week-long odyssey aboard The Golden Chariot came to an end, we bid farewell to the warm and attentive crew who had taken care of us every step of the way. The journey through Karnataka had been nothing short of extraordinary—blending luxury, history, and adventure into an unforgettable experience.
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